Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. "In perfumery, we use the oil extracted from the lemon peel, which is zesty and juicy, and gives brightness to a fragrance," says perfumer Dana Schmitt. The fruit is the size of an orange, with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon. Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. Ah, sweet violets. Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Originally a native of China, peaches made their way to Europe after Alexander the Great conquered the Persians and brought back a botanical trophy, Prunus persica, then known as the Persian apple. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. Giorgio Armani Idole dArmani Versace Crystal Noir. Its very rarely used as a fragrance note more widely, for the brilliant skin-smoothing, nourishing properties of avocado oil, in body products and facial care. Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo Fragonard Fragonard The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. James Heeley Sel Marin Van Cleef & ArpelsFirst. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! 'Virginian cedar has a dry and almost "nervous" effect in a fragrance, whereas cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains is much warmer'. Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? Serge Lutens Santal Majascule Although they sometimes contain chemicals or aromatic ingredients, the most common ingredients in perfumes are essential oils, ethanol and water. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Fresh Violette (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). ChanelCoromandel The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. By Kilian A Taste of Heaven Cinnamomum verum is thought to have been an ingredient in the original holy anointing oil, mentioned in the Bible. I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. ChloLove Eau Intense Nasomatto Black Afgano Cerruti 1881 Lancme Hypnse Senses Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Mock orange blossom, its also known as or Philadelphus. And - we suspect is used to give an aura of magic, dark mystery and allure to perfume, rather than for the perfume itself. Sisley Eau du Soir, In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Lancme Trsor "It was used for the first time in 1966 in iconic fragrance, Eau Sauvage by Parfums Christian Dior," says Huclier. Sometimes, though, both the violet leaf and the flower are used together, for a cool contemporary violet effect, taking the edge off violets slightly great-auntishly old-fashioned powderiness. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. But in perfumery, I love it for its multitude of facets. In traditional perfumery youd use it to blend with the top and mid notes, youd leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. Dermal sensitization. 'Thenatural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isntin reality),' explains perfumer Andy Tauer, 'and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. At least thats what I believe. Versace Versus. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Diptyque Eau de Tarocco Goutal Quel Amour! Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). 5. Not surprisingly, in perfumery its use to hypnotic effect: a powdery, floral note that works beautifully in Ambre compositions. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. Miller Harris LAir de Rien Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame (For the Romans, hawthorn was a symbol of marriage. Creed Bois de Cedrat Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Thirdman Eau Monumentale. Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. Madonna Truth or Dare Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme Chanel Eau de Parfum Givenchy Pi But its under a bit of a cloud, perfume-wise. Nina Ricci LAir Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. Gucci Gucci by Gucci Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. There are other heady, rich, sweet flowers that can be used to add magic to perfumery, though. In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. Perfumers have to use ionones with a light touch, though: they can actually desensitise the nose. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. But the ingredient perfumers weave, mostly into floral fragrances, is generally a synthetic replica. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily, but with a more see-through and yes, watery quality. Dior Diorissimo Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense 'A fantastically juicy, tart citrus note,' explained perfumerJulie Mass toThe Perfume Society. Chanel Cristalle Chanel No. Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. But by any name, this uplifting fruit is always pure joy to discover, in a scent, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Sniff one of the fragrances below, and we think youll agree. Cartier Must de Cartier Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Philospohy Baby Grace Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. Herms Terre dHerms On a blotter, meanwhile, a single drop of patchouli can last for months. Frederic Malle En Passant Everyone knows what an orange smells like, of course: that burst of zest as you dig your fingers into the waxy skin to break into this juiciest of fruits. Jennifer Lopez Glow Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) James Heeley Esprit du Tiger Clive Christian X for Women LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. It has an abstract quality and has become widely used as a base note, in more complex perfumes. The tangy oil that expressed from the (non-edible) bergamot orange, which is grown primarily in Italy. Nasomatto Narcotic Venus Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. Many of us have enjoyed mango on holiday (though theyre rarely so perfectly succulent when theyve been transported half-way across the world). In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. Grossmith Phul-Nana (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) In a fragrance, teas almost as refreshing as in a china cup. Cinnamon is one of the smells of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once. LOccitane de ProvenceDlice des Fleurs Katy Perry Meow And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy The lily of the valley is The Perfume Societys adopted flower: we simply love the French tradition of offering nosegays of this delicate nodding white bloom on 1st May to people you love and admire. Goutal Passion During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Of course it smells woody, but thats just too simple: it also has a freshness, with hints of resin. The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Narciso Rodriguez Essence Britney Spears Believe Versace Versace. Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. So its always blown our minds that patchouli isnt a wood, or a root: its actually a frilly green-leafed, purple-flowered member of the mint family, called Pogostemon patchouli. The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Balmain Eau dIvoire Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Or do you get a whiff of almond? Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. Same sweetness but more subtle. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. It can add sweet, sexy, smoky and mysterious nuances to a fragrance, and works gorgeously alongside rich florals and Ambre spices, giving hints of caramel or whiskey. Alternatively, let your eye travel over the scrolling, rolling collage below and click on whatever takes your fancy: a visual lucky dip. Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). Creed White Flowers Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). Floris Malmaison Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. Clinique Aromatics Elixir And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Queen of the May, or the faerie tree, as this ancient, often gnarly tree is also known as, looks thornily off-putting throughout the winter - but then: ker-pow! Nasomatto Silver Musk 5 Eau Premiere Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). Givenchy Ysatis Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. Paco Rabanne Lady Million Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. Andrea Maack Dark Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar Cartier Dlices So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. WebIngredients. Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense Angelica is a family of beautiful, umbellifer (or umbrella-like) plants, including Angelica archangelica: both the root and the seeds can be used (though the roots more pungent). And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Relics from the burning of incense, dating back thousands of years, have been uncovered by archaeologists. It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. we have some answers for you. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Creed Orange Spice Guerlain Aprs LOnde But yes, in the wild, some do: the Cattleya orchid, in particular though even that varies, from heady and vanilla-y to light and clean. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Guy LarocheFidji You can enjoy it in colognes, Ambres chypres, as well as petal-perfect florals. The Merchant of Venice La Fenice Pour Femme The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. Goutal Mandragore No wonder perfumers love it: peach almost gives the same velvety texture to a fragrance that you get from stroking the ripe fruit itself. "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. The Different Company Rose Poivre Lets call them "raspberry coup". We think theres no more refreshing drink on the planet. Bulgari Jasmin Noir Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Lancme Magie Noire Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Donna Karan DKNY Its also said to be good for memory (as well as for stimulating hair growth), and is used symbolically in weddings, funerals and war commemorations in the UK and Australia: Rosemary for remembrance. Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party Amouage Amouage Gold pour Femme (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). Agent ProvocateurMaitresse Miller Harris La Fume Arabie Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Diptyque Eau Duelle Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. We love this legend about vanilla which we found on the excellent Perfume Shrine blog. Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour. It smells like cinnamon. Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Jo Loves Pomelo Boucheron Japur Bracelet Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Guerlain Samsara In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. Angels trumpet, or brugmansia) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. Cartier Cartier de Lune And we fully expect it to be used in quite a few more mouthwatering fragrances yet, Christina Aguilera Royal Desire Its the rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris which must be left for three to five years to mature. One of those light-the-blue-touch-paper-and-retire perfume ingredients, this. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. Goutal Rose Pompon Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. Great with vanilla. ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. Chanel Gardnia DSquared Potion for Women Frederic Malle En Passant Nez Nez The Unicorn Spell (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) And they smell lovely. When Cleopatra welcomed Mark Antony to her boudoir, her bed was strewn with these aphrodisiac blooms and the floor hidden under a foot and a half of fresh-picked petals. Chances are, though, that the violet in your own perfume and it probably is in your perfume, even if you cant pick it out is synthetic: the chemists Tiemann & Kruger as long ago as 1893 found a way to separate the aroma compounds in violets, which are known as ionones. (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. Peach blossoms are much-loved by the Chinese, thought to protect against bad luck and all kinds of evil; its also a symbol of longevity. Chanel Chance Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Carolina Herrera 212 KenzoKenzo Amour Florale And the rest, as they say, is history. 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. Guerlain LHeure Bleu The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. Guerlain Mitsouko DiptyqueEau de Lierre. Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. Launched in the 1990s, calone recreates the honey-like, watery qualities of the delectable fruit a relation of squashes and cucumbers - which originated in Africa and south-west Asia. Floris Fleur Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Givenchy Very Irresistible Diptyque LEau Trois Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. Tom Ford Violet Blonde Issey Miyake Pleats Please "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. Of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, but not as cloying as.! Cloying as hyacinth another name for bay - as a symbol of marriage is used! 'Oud ' ) has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but with a touch!, bottled the rest, as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, hints... And anti-depressant angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet sunshine, bottled myrrh its! And sweet, all at once, musky or labdanum-like get whispers a! 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